Luca Carati Valenza, Italy

Lady Heart collection Maryland, USA

For anyone who wants an insider view of the US jewellery business, nothing equals a visit to JCK Las Vegas. A huge amount of business is transacted here. The show caters predominantly to the US market - the world's largest, in which watch and jewellery consumption amounts to around US$ 60 billion.

Richard Glatter Designs, Arkanas, USA

Alan Friedman California,USA

The India Pavilion at the World's fair on Level 1

Since pre-JCK expectations were high, the fact that there was no avalanche of new business was disappointing. But most were relieved at indications that the US will continue a healthy growth of around six per cent. This stability is of great importance to the global industry.

On the floors it was strictly business, as buyers from billion-dollar specialty chains and million-dollar independents remain closeted with their chosen suppliers (who are hardly likely to allow them a wider view). Smaller independent retailers have more of a chance to look around - but with the bewildering choice, they tend to gravitate towards the familiar.

Thus it was that while the majority found the show satisfactory, a good 45 per cent of respondents in an online poll felt that it was not up to expectations. Which is significant, because firms do look forward to booking orders, at least to recoup the high costs of participation.

Raichand Shah of Moti Gems, New York, was surprised at the size of the show, which he feels is expanding each year. "It is getting more difficult to do justice to the show because of the large number of exhibitors. A ratio of 10-15 visitors per stall should be the minimum. Here it's much smaller." he said. Moreover, he pointed out, the number of visiting wholesalers had decreased this year, with a preponderance of retailers. Although the show organisers reported that "buying was very brisk and numbers were on par with previous years," long-time participants reported that the number of exhibitors were up and that attendance seemed lower in some areas of the show. Most business was conducted "by appointment."

Many exhibitors found no new customers and there was certainly a dearth of walk-ins. "Price resistance" was frequently mentioned. However, those who planned to meet regular customers were satisfied, as were those who made pre-show marketing efforts.

Jewelmark, although a new exhibitor, had sent out brochures, booked banners at the show, and fixed prior appointments - "We received a lot of enquiries and there was a good response to our prices," reported Rajen Mehta. Anchal Minda of Diafini with five years' experience of JCK participation was also satisfied with the response, which according to him was better than last year. He commented that buyers focused more on price than on quality and that business was more competitive.

Much of the jewellery on display comprised the bland but expensive range of diamond studded pieces which reflects US consumer preferences. Visitors looking for something different gravitated to the newly introduced Design Centre which featured 108 exhibitors. Many also went by the Style Pavilion, although there seemed no apparent reason for that title.

Amrapali's ethnic-inspired designer jewellery found a good response with existing and new buyers. So did Shree Ramkrishna's range of diamond jewellery featuring its new Divine Cut which was launched at the show. Girish Patel states that the range evokes the '60s flower power era with its connotations of love and peace.

India in Focus GJEPC hosted a well-attended press meet at JCK on June 4. Bakul Mehta, chairman, GJEPC, made a presentation on India's growing presence on the gem and jewellery world map. Nirupa Bhatt, marketing manager, Rio Tinto Diamonds, spoke about the Business Excellence Model which is being practised by a growing number of Indian jewellery manufacturing and retail firms.

Large Indian Presence

It was fitting that the Indian gem and jewellery sector was represented in large numbers since not only is it the largest US supplier, but also counts the country as its largest export destination. In the fiscal year ended March 2005, exports to the US were valued at US$ 4.09 bn - US$ 2.58 bn in polished diamonds and US$ 1.35 bn in jewellery.

Dr V S Seshadri, minister (commerce) Embassy of India, Washington, met with Bakul Mehta, GJEPC chairman

Spacious booths at the Titian Ballroom

Todd Reed, Colorado, USA

The India Pavilion was larger than before with 88 exhibitors, mainly from Mumbai, Jaipur and Delhi. Unfortunately, space constraints resulted in Indian booths splitting into two locations - the World's Fair in Level 1, where most of the international participants were placed and the Titian Ballroom, which although it provided larger space, was isolated and did not have much traffic. Overall, Level 1 exhibitors were more satisfied as far as visitors and business was concerned

GJEPC's India branding was much in evidence in hall signage and on the shuttle buses, as well as in the India Pavilions. Adding to the India presence were the stalls of 126 members of the Indian Diamond and Colorstone Association (IDCA) most of whom represent Indian companies. The 17-exhibitor pavilion of the Indo Argyle Diamond Council (IADC), Rio Tinto's marketing initiative, was prominently situated on Level 2. "We are pleased with the quality and volume of traffic at our stalls," said Nirupa Bhatt, marketing manager.

But the JCK experience is not confined to showing one's products and capabilities to the American market. Alongside, the education programme offered around two dozen sessions ranging from gem-mining and grading to marketing and business skills. GIA's presentation on the new cut grade and Martin Rapaport's inimitable take on the state of the diamond industry attracted standing-room-only audiences.

In tandem with JCK, there were other expositions in Las Vegas, such as the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Show and the Signature Salons organised by VNU Jewelry Group. Events just preceding the show were Luxury by JCK, the Couture Jewelry Collection & Conference and the GLDA coloured stones exhibition. And as the sun went down each evening, business made way for glitz and glamour, with cocktails, launch parties and galas, fitting in with the over-the-edge, winner-takes-all razzmatazz of Las Vegas.

Celebrity Keynote Kathy Ireland, former super model and CEO of the design and lifestyle firm that carries her name, drew a packed audience as the keynote speaker at JCK. She presented a critical look at selecting viable brand partners and creating a mutual synergy between retailers and the brands they showcase, urging retailers to carefully select brands that complement their store's philosophy and image. A key point Ireland believes in is the philosophy that men buy products and women choose brands. By building expectations through delivering a variety of brands, retailers will create loyalty and confidence among their customers. Ireland put forward a six-pronged approach to success: 1) Change, as the only certainty; 2) Living beneath one's means to ensure wealth and financial stability; 3) Experience and conquering challenges; 4) Strong family foundations; 5) Forming powerful questions to get powerful answers and 6) Living with great joy. Ireland launched two brands of diamond jewellery at JCK - one under her own name and the other in collaboration with Elizabeth Taylor.
DESIGNERS' GALLERY
		For the Independent Woman The Freedom collection for women by Nomination uses 18kt gold and diamonds on stainless steel. "We have 6,000 products in our range of which 50 per cent comprises interchangeable links," states Antoino Gensini, head of the Italian company. "We're at JCK mainly to interact with the trade - our distributors look after our sales in the US," he added.			Hair Flair This was the first time Maria Geiger from Germany participated in JCK. Her 'Careme' range consists only of hair jewels made in precious metals studded with fancy diamonds and sapphires.
		Colours of Brazil Coloured Brazilian gemstones cut mainly in Jaipur are the centrepiece of Manoel Bernardes' vibrant collection, which is gaining a strong following in the US.			Transformable Selected as a 'Rising Star' at JCK, Lata K specialises in transformable jewellery. 'Envy' smothered with fancy sapphires, diamonds and a large cultured pearl set in platinum, can be worn as a pendant/brooch or separated into a ring, pendant and earrings.
		Back to Basics Nani's always has a stream of buyers at the international shows who come to stock up on the latest offerings of Laura Bicego, its creative star. She says natural elements and a stone-washed gold finish are in style.			Colourful Cubes Mexican designer Daniel Espinosa plays with gold-plated silver and graphite in his latest collection 'Infinito'. "I use the cube as an icon and contrasting surfaces to achieve an art deco look," he says.

Bill Boyajian receives a memento from Basant Johari, president (left), and Sushil Goyal, secretary, IDCA IDCA GALA NIGHT Anna Martin A much looked-forward-to networking feature at JCK is the annual gala dinner held by the Indian Diamond and Colorstone Association at which it honours members of the industry who have made significant contributions to its growth and development. At its 21st gala held on June 4, IADC honoured Jewelry TelevisionT (ACN TV) as the "Retailer of the Year". The "Doyenne of the Year Award" was presented to Anna Martin, senior vice president and regional manager, ABN AMRO International Diamond and Jewelry Group. William E Boyajian, president of Gemological Institute of America, in his keynote address said that the Indian diamond and coloured stone sector has become a dominant force in the industry and competes at every level. According to him, there are two strong factors behind India's success - the genuine ties that bind Indian families and the vision of the community to disperse around the world and integrate with seeming ease. Boyajian urged the IDCA and its members to play a greater role in mainstream organisations and contribute to causes that make a difference to the industry, such as its recent involvement in the Diamond Industry Steering Committee (DISC). "The industry will benefit from the leadership qualities which have enabled your members to climb to power and prestige in the trade," he said.