CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri presented some of the perspectives from within the jewellery sector on the issue of sustainability while delivering the opening address of the 6th Seminar on Technology in the Jewellery Industry Seminar, organized in Rio de Janeiro by industry bodies Systema Ajorio, with the support of Firjan and IBGM. 

The issue is of special significance to Brazil which is the world’s ninth largest economy, with massive reserves of biodiversity and, home to 60 percent of the world’s largest rainforest, the Amazon. Brazil is also one of the largest suppliers of coloured gemstones globally.

Dr. Cavalieri explained that the industry has to view sustainability from a broad perspective, because diamonds, coloured gemstones, jade, and precious metals, like gold, silver and platinum, cannot return once they are removed from the earth.

“For minerals, we have defined sustainability as the generation of sustainable grass-roots economic and social opportunities in the countries and regions in which they are located. And here we refer to opportunities both in the mineral extraction and the jewellery industries, and also in other economic sectors, which are secondary beneficiaries of the investments made in and revenues generated by precious gems and minerals,” he continued.

Other parts of the jewellery business are different, he asserted, including some where not only is economic activity sustainable, but so is the product – environmentally as well as socially and economically. “These most often these involve biogenic materials in a marine environment, where sustainability is made possible through aquafarming, such as with cultured pearls, or controlled harvesting, as with precious coral,” he explained.

“Sustainability in a luxury product industry like jewellery will not be achieved through a single undertaking, but rather through a multitude of acts, by people and companies working together or individually,” Dr. Cavalieri continued.

He added that over the past several years there has been a strong move toward the adoption of uniform standards of practice, so as to optimise conditions in which sustainable activities can take place. “These include the creation of strict codes of practice, against which some companies choose to be audited and certified.”

Outlining CIBJO’s work in helping provide solutions to the industry, particularly its “more fragile sectors” he highlight the coloured gemstones sector where “almost all firms qualify as SMEs, even the mining companies”. He said that CIBJO’s  Responsible Sourcing Blue Book provides a framework and guidance for ethically sourcing gems and precious metals responsibly in the jewellery sector.

CIBJO said that the Book has references the OECD’s Due Diligence Guidance for minerals from high-risk areas, insists on compliance with the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and the World Diamond Council System of Warranties, and supports the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights.

“The philosophy that guided us in the creation of the Responsible Sourcing Book is that all participants in the jewellery business have a duty of care, and thus should conduct supply-chain due diligence to the best of their ability, and improve over time. While we support the principle of having responsible practices being verified and certified by standards organisations and independently audited, we also recognise that, at any particular point in time, not every company has the capacity to do so,” he stated.

In conclusion the CIBJP President said that “there are many milestones to pass”, but if the industry commits to sustainability, and is able to redefine the value proposition of its products in the public consciousness, the jewellery can not only be “objets d'art and symbols of love and devotion, but also instruments that actively serve to create better and more sustainable societies. When consumers buy jewellery, they should feel that they are not only doing something for themselves and their loved ones, but for the world and society as well.”

Pic caption: CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri delivering the opening address at the 6th Technology in the Jewellery Industry Seminar in Rio de Janeiro on October 22

Pic courtesy: CIBJO